Measurements needed
Shoulder
Chest
Sleeve length
Sleeve width
Full length of the dress.
Method of folding the paper
Fold a sheet of paper twice making four layers as shown in the figure
Keeping B-F on fold mark B-F= ½ shoulder +½”
B-A =½ shoulder +½”
F-H =¼ chest +1½”
B-C =B-D=1/12th chest
From the point D draw a perpendicular line such that D-E = B-C.Join C-E
A-I=1”
Mark the point G on F-H such that A-B = G-F
G-K=1+1/2”
Join shoulder slope C-I
Figure 2
Shape the neck line C-D as shown. Front and back neck depth are same.
Join H-K and produce.This line meets the curve at J.
Shape the yoke curve A-F Keeping the width of the yoke same throughout.
This curve cuts line H-K-J at L
While blocking the smocking, sleeve seam should on the line J-L
Shape the armhole. A-I-K-H
Figure 3
Cut the yoke D-J-C-I-L-F and open the fold once . We get 2 layers .They are front yoke and back yoke .
Figure 4
Keeping one portion aside which is the front, cut the other portion along the line D-F .These two portions are left back yoke and right back yoke. Mark sleeve seam line position on all the yoke pieces. (Pink lines)
Figure 5
Join the yoke pieces at shoulders with cellophane tape as shown in the figure . This is bishop dress collar guide
1 to 2 and 3 to 4 = shoulder lines
5 to 6 and 7 to 8 = front sleeve seams
9 to 10 and 11 to 12 = back sleeve seams
While cutting the fabric an extra 1/2" of extension to be made for attaching button stands ( shaded area)
After separating the yoke from the paper draft the remaining portion A-I-K-H is used as armhole shaping guide.
(Please note that the drafts are not to scale)
continued..........
